UNTOLD TRACKS THE GREATEST TREK PART II
Posted by Stephen
Reading time: 10 minutes
In our previous journal entry about this fabulous phenomenon, we dug up some fascinating facts. We thought it would be interesting to put some aspects and urban myths about the Great Migration in perspective. To be as complete as possible. Yes, because we are geeks. But mostly because we were actually baffled by it ourselves. But make no mistake. This migration, which is not actually a migration, is absolutely and undoubtedly great. In every way you can imagine.
Which brings us to one of our pet subjects. We will again tell you to chuck out your bucket list. To stop ticking boxes. To breathe and let it be. To refrain from rushing through the Serengeti like wild beasts, only focused on one thing: capturing a wildebeest crossing. And we will do so without having the entire safari and tourist industry putting us on a hit list. We'd like you to consider a few things about The Great Migration. A couple of irrefutable laws of nature to keep in mind if you get the chance to observe this marvel of Mother Nature up-close and personal like us.
For starters, do not ever forget that these animals are called wild for a reason. It's not called the 'tame and orderly' life. So, even though the itineraries, maps, and timetables about The Great Migration are roughly correct and to be trusted, the animals don't give two hoots about calendars. And they care even less about your unquenchable thirst to capture their antics for social media. Yes, if you travel to the Mara river at a particular time of the year, the chances of you seeing masses of wildebeests diving headfirst into whirling waters are pretty high. The possibility that you'll see a look of sheer terror and surprise in a wildebeest's eye while it's being dragged down under the surface by a famished crocodile is there. You will almost certainly see salivating lions licking their lips waiting for this moveable feast of meat on the other riverbank.
But there is also a minor possibility that you'll see an 'almost crossing.' Hundreds of thousands of wildebeests and zebras sniffing the air, moving towards the water, and backing up again. Startled by the slightest sound or motion. Hours and hours of waiting. And no crossing. And no amount of you clapping your hands, shooing them or screaming "Get in already!" will change that. It will only result in a gnu looking at you defiantly with a "well, why don't you jump in that river filled with voracious reptiles, then?" on its face.
All jokes aside (and please do not clap, shoo or scream!), we just want to remind you that this is wilderness in its purest form. And not a choreographed and perfectly timed attraction. And our stance on this is that it is perfectly ok. Would it be a bit disappointing to travel all the way to the border between Tanzania and Kenya at the 'perfect' time and not seeing such a crossing? A little bit. But if you keep an open mind about it, you'll enjoy every single minute of it. Whatever happens. Or not. If just like us, you try to see the beauty in everything around you, you cannot and will not be disappointed. Never ever. The splendor and the sheer beauty of the nature all around you prevent that. One last thing we would like to mention in the 'calm your tits' department ('Hakuna your tatas' like they say over here), is the following. While everybody seems to be focusing on these crossings, The Great Migration is much more than that. It's a fabulous feast for the eyes at any given moment in time. In every part of the Serengeti. Let us explain.
The Great Migration is an all-year event. Yes, the crossings in the summer or in the winter are absolutely baffling. But the vast gatherings of animals pregnant up to their teeth, grazing peacefully in the luscious green Kenyan Maasai Mara plains around January, February, are also a splendid sight. And the countless little gnus and zebras being born in the springtime are pretty superb to watch too. Observing them hipping and hopping around without a care in the world, totally oblivious of the dangers that lure in the grass, is adorable. Every moment in time of this colossal trek has its own appeal. No doubt about that.
Every moment. And, on every square meter. Since the Serengeti is around 30.000 km2, chances are that something will happen in other places besides the infamous Mara River. And because this massive movement of animals has, of course, a tremendous impact on the eco-systems, the presence or the absence of these insane numbers of animals has consequences. Everywhere. It's a bit like when you push on one thing, another thing pops up in an entirely different place. And it's all perfectly logical. Even the cruel and harsh laws of nature make sense. If for instance millions of gnus decide to move up to Kenya, what do you think happens with big cats like lions all the way down in the Southern parts of the Serengeti? Can you guess what happens when they see their walking buffet skipping town? They become very hungry. Duh. Fighting amongst themselves for the handful of gnus or zebras remaining. More often than not, resulting in haunting images of totally starved walking skeletons you'd hardly recognize as the kings of the plains. That is The Great Migration too. It's thrilling, puzzling and surprising around the clock. And in every corner of the mighty vast plains of the Serengeti.
There. We did our part. We talked about the most celebrated natural spectacle on earth. In our book 'A Taste of Tanzania,' we go to great lengths to explain this natural wonder. And here we gave you some things to consider. Some points to ponder. This is just our humble opinion. Because in the end, it's all up to you. Maybe it's just like going to a summer festival. Watching the big headliners on the main stage is excellent, of course. And guaranteed to fulfill your wildest dreams. To still your hunger for something you've been waiting so long to see 'live.' But, sometimes, you also discover real rare pearls and truly astonishing things on the side stages. Stunning stuff happens when you least expect it.